When Alexander Payne unleashed his film Sideways upon the world in the fall of 2004, he held modest expectations for this indie gem, a humorous buddy road trip set against the stunning backdrop of California’s wine country. With a budget of approximately $16 million, the film defied expectations by grossing over $100 million globally. It also garnered an Academy Award for Best Adapted Screenplay, alongside nominations for Best Picture, Best Director, Best Supporting Actor (Thomas Haden Church), and Best Supporting Actress (Virginia Madsen), sealing its place in cinematic history.
Reflecting on the phenomenon that Sideways became, Payne recalls, “As we were making the film, I thought it was just a nice little comedy and had no inkling that it would resonate so deeply over time.” He added, chuckling about the iconic merlot joke that inadvertently affected wine sales, “And the merlot line that supposedly changed the wine industry? It was just a single joke, one small line in the script. Who could have ever foreseen that it would spark such a shift?”
The pivotal line occurs during a memorable scene, where Miles, portrayed by a frustrated Paul Giamatti, engages in a heated debate with his friend Jack (played by Church) outside a bustling Los Olivos restaurant. Their enchanting new friends, Maya (Madsen) and Stephanie (Sandra Oh), await indoors. “If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving,” Miles passionately proclaims. “I am not drinking any fucking merlot!”
Those thirteen impactful words, according to sommeliers and industry analysts, sparked a dramatic downturn in merlot sales while boosting the popularity of pinot noir. A 2009 study from Sonoma State University directly links this decline to the film’s influence, with noticeable effects felt across renowned wine regions worldwide, particularly in Santa Barbara County, where the movie was filmed.
As audiences abruptly shifted their preferences, abandoning the once-favored merlot for the more delicate pinot noir, winemakers and restaurateurs eagerly embraced the change. Doug Margerum, who owned The Wine Cask in Santa Barbara during the film’s initial release, witnessed a remarkable transformation firsthand. “Before Sideways hit theaters, we struggled to sell pinot, but afterward, demand soared, and sales skyrocketed,” he shares with enthusiasm. “Our wine list expanded from one page of pinots to three.”
The film’s impact was felt deeply across the Santa Ynez Valley, specifically in the acclaimed Santa Rita Hills viticultural area, a prime locale for cultivating high-quality pinot noir grapes. Winemaker James Sparks of Spear and Liquid Farm exclaims, “The film catalyzed enormous growth for the region, leading to a surge in pinot plantings.” He emphasizes the valley’s unique geographical features, stating, “Our east-west mountain alignment allows for a cool ocean influence, creating the perfect environment for growing pinot.”
Winemaker Kathy Joseph, from Fiddlehead Cellars in Santa Rita Hills, credits the film for sparking a deeper appreciation for pinot noir among audiences. “I believe people connected with pinot on a more emotional level after seeing the film,” she notes. “It legitimized their desire to explore this varietal, as it was described so beautifully, weaving an allure that linked the romance of the wine to the romance of the region.”
Miles articulates his admiration for pinot in a heartfelt exchange with Maya, elaborating passionately on the character of the grape: “It’s a hard grape to grow. It’s thin-skinned, temperamental, and ripens early. You see, it’s not a survivor like cabernet. No, pinot requires constant care and attention. Its flavors are haunting and brilliantly unique, thrilling and subtle all at once.”
Miles’ reverie about pinot draws on the original novel by Rex Pickett, whose alter ego is embodied in Miles. Pickett reflects, “I adore the femininity and multifaceted expression of pinot. It inspires poetic thoughts and evokes profound emotions—truly a bottomless ocean of mystery.”
Merlot’s decline in popularity was not entirely unwelcome, particularly among local vintners. “The film had a monumental impact on the perception of merlot,” says Carlton McCoy, a master sommelier and CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates. “In many instances, it was a necessary shift. Merlot was being cultivated in regions where it simply couldn’t thrive, leading to excess plantings. Post-film, growers reassessed their practices, focusing less on merlot.”
Santa Ynez Valley, long overshadowed, emerged as a hot spot for wine tourism, as local winemakers basked in newfound acclaim. “When I drove up while writing my book and throughout the filming period, the region was undiscovered, rural, and lacking high-end establishments,” Pickett remembers. Renowned actor Fess Parker, best known for his portrayal of Davy Crockett, played a pivotal role in the area’s viticultural history by establishing Fess Parker Winery. This winery, serving as a captivating backdrop for a key scene, brought unexpected attention to the valley. Parker, who passed away in 2010, reveled in the attention that followed the film’s success, validating his early belief in the Santa Ynez region as a premier destination for hospitality.
For businesses fortunate enough to be woven into the film’s narrative, the impact was game-changing. Kathy Joseph noted that Fiddlehead Cellars, which received a notable shout-out during a pivotal scene filmed at Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe, witnessed an incredible wave of interest. “The influence of Sideways on my brand and the Santa Ynez Valley overall has been profound. It feels like the movie premiered just yesterday, as people still flock to taste our wines and explore this region thanks to the Sideways connection.”
In the years following the film’s release, the Santa Barbara wine country underwent remarkable growth. “During the time Sideways was filmed, the area boasted around 100 wineries. Fast forward twenty years, and we now have over 300 unique labels and approximately 75 diverse grape varieties,” explains Alison Laslett, CEO of Santa Barbara Vintners, emphasizing the region’s evolution as a leader in grape cultivation and winemaking.
Alongside the flourishing wine scene, a culinary renaissance also emerged, with several restaurant offerings earning accolades, including Michelin recognition. Classic establishments like The Hitching Post and Solvang Restaurant, honored in the film, continue to thrive alongside new dining experiences that have transformed the region’s gastronomic landscape.
While only a handful of quaint tasting establishments existed in Los Olivos back in 2004, the landscape has dramatically changed with the emergence of over 30 tasting rooms. “Previously, tastings were complimentary and we rarely had customers,” recalls Pickett. “Now, visitors can expect to pay anywhere between $20 to $50 for an experience. The blending of exceptional wine with the enchanting beauty of Santa Ynez Valley inspires conversation and brings people together.”
Virginia Madsen, who had a personal connection to the Santa Ynez Valley long before filming began, expressed her affection for the place. “At the time, I wasn’t well-versed in wine tasting; it was more of a sanctuary for me,” she shares. “Post-film, I found it overwhelming as family-owned businesses thrived under newfound success, with tour buses and bridal parties flooding the area. Yet, it didn’t ruin the magic; it evolved into a warm, welcoming place that still feels like home. There’s an enchanting quality about it, a serene pace that just slows life down.”
Payne, now a sporadic visitor, reflects on the transformation of the region since the film’s release. “Every time I return, it feels like I’ve become a stranger among all the new wineries, hotels, and restaurants,” he says, recalling a time when joy, rather than commerce, was the focal point of the area.
Interestingly, Giamatti’s experiences diverged significantly from Miles’. “I had virtually no understanding of wine prior to filming — I rarely drank it, and I still can’t discern one wine from another,” he admits. With humor, he adds, “I tend to disappoint fans and sommeliers; my tastes lean more toward Guinness and tequila. Not together, though.”
Strolling through the transformed area, Giamatti noted changes since the film’s inception. “I was saddened to see Pea Soup Andersen’s in Buellton has vanished, yet I marveled at the many new establishments that emerged,” he notes. “The extent to which a film can reshape a locale is something I never envisioned. I genuinely hope it has benefited the local residents.”
Some locals initially hesitated to participate in the film. Pickett recalls that a few businesses slated for features in Sideways withdrew at the last moment. “Frank Ostini, owner of The Hitching Post, read the screenplay and feared its portrayal would harm the area; he rallied efforts to halt the film,” he recounts. However, Ostini eventually opted to embrace the opportunity, transforming The Hitching Post into one of the film’s most memorable settings and a cornerstone of the local wine circuit.
While some winemakers whose wines didn’t appear in the film still managed to thrive post-Sideways, others encountered challenges. Lane Tanner, a trailblazing pinot producer and former spouse of Ostini, had a different story. “The movie completely derailed my life,” she confesses. “It was a boon for those featured, granting unparalleled publicity, but for many of us, it resulted in skyrocketing grape prices. Demand for pinot surged far beyond supply, making it increasingly expensive for producers like myself.”
Today, while pinot noir is still revered as the wine industry’s crowning glory, McCoy asserts that caution is warranted. “Currently, pinot noir appears to be overplanted in excessively warm regions,” he argues, predicting an inevitable reckoning in its cultivation akin to what was experienced with merlot.
However, McCoy also sees promise for merlot’s resurgence. “A slow rebound is on the horizon,” he suggests. “Its marketability has improved significantly over the past decade. Personally, I appreciate a vibrant and elegant merlot, especially those hailing from regions like Coombsville and Carneros.”
Rebecca Phillips, proprietor of Buvette and Vintage Wine Bars, views merlot with renewed admiration. “It might be one of the premier grape varietals in the world,” she asserts. “Ultimately, Miles never disparaged merlot; in the film, the audience misunderstood his views, believing he advocated against it, leading to a misinterpretation among viewers.”
Margerum highlights the irony in the film’s imagery. “In the final scene, Miles is sipping Cheval Blanc, primarily composed of merlot,” he points out, drawing attention to the contrast between Miles’ initial aversion and the reality that merlot thrives in cooler climates, much like those found in Santa Barbara County.
Payne shares an appreciation for merlot, expressing a preference for quality vintages. “I’ve always supported merlot — particularly the exceptional ones,” he remarks. For the upcoming 20th anniversary celebration of Sideways, he insists, “We will only serve merlot at the event.” He fondly recounts a past experience of crafting and bottling his own pinot in a Santa Monica apartment, a memory he treasures even today.
Beyond its role in the pinot and merlot saga, Sideways demystified the wine industry, inviting a new generation of American wine enthusiasts into the fold. Jared Hooper, a sommelier and wine director, believes the movie altered how Americans approach wine appreciation. “It helped dismantle the stereotypical, snobbish archetype associated with wine, fostering a culture of true passion and respect,” he notes.
Madsen witnessed this evolution firsthand. “Many men I knew who never engaged with wine began exploring and enjoying it,” she observes. “Women started hosting their own tasting events too. I truly cherish that development.”
Payne expresses a willingness to revisit the world of wine through another film but emphasizes the importance of the narrative. “Oh, absolutely. Everything hinges on a captivating story,” he asserts. “I would be thrilled to explore oenophiliac cinema again, but first, we need compelling characters and an engaging plot filled with humor.”
As Pickett pens his fifth book in the Sideways story arc, the prospect of revisiting beloved characters like Miles, Jack, Maya, and Stephanie stirs curiosity. However, Giamatti prefers to keep the story open-ended. “I personally believe sequels and extended series can detract from the original magic,” he claims, advocating for stories that allow audiences to reflect on the characters’ ambiguous journeys. “We merely glimpsed these individuals’ lives; the uncertainty of their futures is captivating. It adds to the intrigue,” he concludes.
Side-bar: The Santa Ynez Valley’s Wining and Dining Renaissance
Sideways catapulted pinot noir into the limelight and ignited a surge of tourism to Santa Ynez Valley, a trend that continues to thrive. During filming, the region offered only a handful of modest eateries and accommodations, including two notable locations from the film, Hitching Post and Solvang Restaurant. Presently, these cherished locales still draw crowds while upscale, Michelin-starred establishments enrich the valley’s culinary scene.
The hotels that grace the valley today have undergone a renaissance of their own. “The Windmill Inn is now Sideways Inn!” exclaims Madsen, delighting in the revamped establishment where Miles and Jack once played. The Landsby now exudes modern Scandinavian style with a vibrant bar scene and Mad&Vin, another dining sensation. Furthermore, The Genevieve and Hotel Ynez blend chic decor with inviting outdoor spaces. Established in 1946, Alisal Ranch remains a legendary resort, featuring newly renovated guest rooms adorned with contemporary Western decor. Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, the region’s longest-standing luxury boutique hotel, also boasts refreshed accommodations.
The valley’s winemaking landscape has evolved over the last two decades, with female vintners now leading in numbers. The Santa Ynez Valley reportedly boasts the highest concentration of women winemakers globally, with exemplars like Jessica Gasca from Strange Family Vineyards and Story of Soil, as well as Paula Tabalipa, a former stylist for films, and actress Sunny Doench Stricker from Future Perfect Wine making a significant mark. “It’s a well-established fact that women excel in winemaking,” asserts sommelier Jared Hooper.
A version of this story appeared in the Nov. 13 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.
What culinary experiences can visitors enjoy in the Santa Ynez Valley?
The area has seen a significant transformation, catering to a new wave of wine enthusiasts and food lovers alike. Visitors can now indulge in an array of culinary delights and wine experiences that reflect the region’s ascent to prominence in the gastronomic world.
Nearby vineyards have flourished, offering tastings and tours that showcase the best of Santa Ynez’s offerings. Some have even launched collaborations with local chefs, creating pairings that highlight the unique characteristics of the valley’s wines and produce. This synergistic relationship between food and wine plays a vital role in enhancing the overall experience for visitors, establishing the Santa Ynez Valley as a must-visit destination.
As a testament to the film’s impact, numerous wine events have popped up across the valley, celebrating local vintners and attracting crowds looking to savor premium wines. The annual Santa Barbara County Vintners Festival, for instance, draws thousands who gather to taste exquisite wines while enjoying live music and gourmet food. This vibrant atmosphere reflects the spirit of camaraderie and celebration fostered by the film.
Moreover, the legacy of *Sideways* continues to inspire not just wine lovers but also those who appreciate storytelling through food and drink. Its cultural influence has encouraged a more approachable and inclusive perspective on wine appreciation, moving away from elitist perceptions and inviting everyone to partake in the joys of wine.
the Santa Ynez Valley has undergone a profound evolution since the release of *Sideways*. It stands today as a premier destination where exquisite wines meet exceptional culinary experiences, drawing both ardent fans of the film and new visitors eager to explore the beauty of this enchanting wine country.
