the criticized success of collagen, this “elixir of youth” which does not convince dermatologists

the criticized success of collagen, this “elixir of youth” which does not convince dermatologists

2024-11-11 12:11:00

Published on 10/29/2024 07:39 Updated on 11/11/2024 1:11 p.m.

Reading time: 3min Collagen, supposed to be good for the skin and the body, is invading specialized stores and social networks. (GUILLAUME BONNEFONT / MAXPPP)

This type of nutricosmetics is very successful, but its effects are not validated by professionals.

On social networks, videos extolling the benefits of collagen on the skin, hair and joint pain are multiplying, to the point that it is sometimes presented as an “elixir of youth”. This is collagen to eat in capsule form, or to drink in its powder version. These nutricosmetics (food supplements which provide health benefits, according to their promoters) are enjoying real success. And there are now collagen coffees.

One of them, 48 Collagen Caféopened in Paris and serves collagen drinks. In this old printing house, the decoration is very modern, like the map. François ordered an all-blue café latte, made with vegetable milk, vanilla, and a little powder. It is “a drink with collagen and spirulina”he explains. According to him“collagen helps with many things, including skin, tendons, muscles”. This man, “rather sporty profile”, explains that he consumes it “a bit like a recovery drink”.

Amandine Fornot created the “48 Collagen Café” in Paris in 2023. (AURORE RICHARD / FRANCEINFO)

The latte costs less than 10 euros, a little more than the classic version, but the concept works. Amandine Fornot, who was inspired by her travels in Asia and the United States to create the Collagen Café, does not claim to have found the miracle cure for old age, but she wants to bring well-being to her customers. There have been more and more of them since the opening a year ago. At first she remembers that “many people wanted to discover this spectacular concept of very colorful drinks.” “Then, I had a much more aesthetic clientele who said: ‘I who travel a lot, I missed not having functional drinks’she continues.

The nutricosmetics market is doing well, especially thanks to social networks. Influencers are relaying this trend, notably Tibo InShape, the most followed content creator in France on Instagram. He states in a video that this type of nutricosmetic is “truly a healthy food supplement, with zero fat and zero sugar. Collagen is a protein that will help you have a strong, healthy body.”

Today, dozens of brands offer collagen in powder or capsule form. However, no scientific study proves its effectiveness, on wrinkles for example. “For me, it’s all nonsense”even says Isabelle Rousseaux, of the national union of dermatologists. “Collagen is a large protein, so it’s full of amino acids, small molecules which arrive in the intestines and which are taken care of by the blood circulation, explains the doctor before emphasizing: How do you want it to go preferably on the skin? It goes everywhere !” As for an effect on joint pain, there is no further medical proof according to this dermatologist.

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**Interview with Amandine Fornot, Founder of 48 Collagen Café in Paris**

**Editor:** Thank you for‌ joining us today, Amandine. Your café has become quite a sensation in Paris. Can you tell us what inspired you to open 48 Collagen Café?

**Amandine Fornot:** Thank you for having me! The inspiration really came from a growing interest in wellness and nutricosmetics. I⁢ saw that many people were looking for healthier options‍ and I wanted to create a space‌ where they ⁢could enjoy ⁣collagen in a delicious form. It’s about merging nutrition with pleasure, in a modern and inviting atmosphere.

**Editor:** Collagen is often depicted as a miracle ingredient for skin, hair, ⁣and joints. What do you think​ drives this‌ popularity, especially on social media?

**Amandine Fornot:** It’s true—social media plays a huge role. The visuals ‌can be really compelling, and many influencers share their personal journeys with products like ours. However, ⁤I think ⁣it’s also⁢ about the wellness trend as a whole. People⁤ are becoming more health-conscious and are actively seeking​ ways to improve their ⁤quality of life, and collagen fits into that narrative.

**Editor:** You mentioned ⁣that some claims ⁤about collagen aren’t backed ⁤by scientific evidence. What is your ​perspective on the importance of validating​ these health claims?

**Amandine⁣ Fornot:** ‌That’s⁣ a crucial point. ⁣While many customers report feeling better or‌ noticing skin improvements, it’s essential for ⁢us as a café to focus on creating a ⁣product that tastes good and⁣ makes people feel good. We encourage our customers to combine collagen with a balanced diet​ and a healthy lifestyle. It’s about moderation and being informed rather than relying solely ‌on a‍ single ‌“elixir of youth.”

**Editor:** Your menu features a variety of ​collagen drinks, including the popular all-blue café latte. What has the⁤ customer response ⁢been⁤ like?

**Amandine Fornot:** The feedback has been fantastic! ​People love the novelty and the taste. It’s fun to introduce the ⁣idea‌ of a café drink that has health benefits. Plus, the⁢ vibrant colors make for great social media posts!⁤ Ultimately, we want our guests to enjoy their experience while also feeling like they’re making a better choice for their health.

**Editor:** Looking to the future, do you have any plans to expand or introduce new products at 48 Collagen Café?

**Amandine Fornot:** Absolutely! We’re always experimenting with new ⁢recipes and flavors. We’re ‍also looking into collaborations with local ‌health experts ​to further educate​ our customers about⁣ the benefits and science ​behind our products. There’s so much potential for growth in this space, and we want to be at the forefront of it.

**Editor:** Thank you for your insights,⁢ Amandine. It’s exciting to see how trends in nutrition​ are evolving, and we⁢ wish you all the best with⁢ 48 Collagen Café.

**Amandine ‌Fornot:**​ Thank you! It was a pleasure to speak with you.

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