Closing of Traditional Frankfurt Restaurants: A Tragicomic Tale
By: Oscar Unger | October 30, 2024, 2:58 p.m.
Ah, Frankfurt! Where the cider flows freer than the tears at a grieving family reunion. The news coming out of Alt-Sachsenhausen is almost too much to bear! A beloved traditional restaurant, the “Grauer Bock,” is shuttering its doors. I mean, have you seen the price of a pint these days? You might as well pay for a small mortgage instead. You know, just your average Thursday evening in the bars of Hessen!
The In-Cider Information
The cider scene here is in transition—it’s about as stable as a one-legged bar stool. On a positive note, the Three Steubers tavern has reopened! After three years of sitting empty like an abandoned puppy waiting for a home, Frank Winkler, the savior of all things fermented and fattening, has stepped in with a brand-new concept. What’s the concept, you ask? That it’s still open after a round of dodgy decisions—sounds like a good start!
But, let’s pour one out for the Momberger in Heddernheim. Ralf Greb is serving his last Bembel this Thursday after a glorious 35-year stint. And just in case you’re wondering, a Bembel isn’t a weird sporting event; it’s a traditional pitcher for serving apple wine! I guess after fifty years of family history, Ralf figured he’d rather retire than listen to another round of dad jokes and bad karaoke. But hey, there’s always a new tenant ready to jump on that cider wagon! I mean, nothing says “Welcome to the family business” quite like inheriting the headaches of your ancestors.
That’s a Wrap!
And now we have the “Grauer Bock”—another tragic tale hollering for an audience. The owners, Götz Elsässer and his wife, are finally throwing in the (metaphorically rusted) towel after years of serving joy and—let’s face it—an overflowing amount of alcohol to a loyal clientele. “Why,” you wonder? The answer is as simple as our diets today—a classic case of age. Did I mention they’ve been running it for decades? Decades! That’s longer than some celebrity marriages! Imagine trying to convince the bartender to serve your drink at that age! You’d be asking them about the good old days while they reminisce about fermenting fruit before your great-great-grandparents were even around!
Legacy of Laughter and Libations
Frankly, their closure feels dishonest. Family-owned for over a century, this establishment once thrived as a watering hole for all sorts—carters, butchers, and, daringly, even doctors! I mean, who knew the medical community would indulge in a pint? Seems rather fitting, given that one doctor’s prescription might be what gets you through another boring week of work!
What’s next for this iconic space? The Elsässers don’t wish to disclose their plans publicly; maybe they’re writing a bestseller on the “Art of Closing a Restaurant” or just waiting for the Memoir of Memories™ to hit the shelves. For now, we’re left with their thanks and a plate—a ribbed one, if you’ve got a taste for the history of hospitality!
All Roads Lead to Abandonment?
Even the namesakes of the pubs—the Blaue Bock, the Schwarzer Bock, and the elusive White Bock—sound more like a questionable animal rights campaign than places to quench your thirst! What was it about goats and alcohol that sounded like a great idea? One can only speculate.
So here’s to the “Grauer Bock” and its comrades, while we drown our sorrows in a glass of the finest cider. May their memories linger like that faint smell of apples and ambition. And if you head over to the series of old taverns that remain, just remember: not every place is destined to be an iconic fixture; some just serve their time before disappearing into the ether of regret and nostalgia… and let’s face it, some of them do so with certainly a bit of cheek, like a barmaid who knows what you ordered before you’ve even stepped in!
And who knew that legends about treasure guarded by goats would be the backstory of our much-loved, but increasingly fleeting, pubs? If those walls could talk, I bet they’d do it in a German lilt, brimming with attitude and a twist of destiny.
PressSplit
The interior with the characteristic square skylight serves as a nostalgic reminder of countless gatherings over the decades. The last pint will be served here tomorrow as the beloved “Grauer Bock” bids farewell.
Shock in Alt-Sachsenhausen: A traditional restaurant there, the “Grauer Bock,” is closing at short notice, leaving locals to mourn a cherished gathering spot.
Frankfurt – The Frankfurt cider scene is in transition, with much change unfolding in its storied establishments. On the positive side of this evolving narrative, The Three Steubers have reopened their doors, much to the delight of cider enthusiasts. After the passing of the long-time innkeeper Wolfgang Wagner in May 2021, the charming corner restaurant remained closed for three years. Recently, however, Frank Winkler, a prominent figure from the “Daheim im…” hospitality group, revitalized the historic tavern with a fresh approach that aims to attract both old patrons and new visitors alike.
Two shut down at the same time
On the losing side: The Momberger in Heddernheim is preparing to close its doors, as tenant Ralf Greb serves his final Bembel this Thursday after more than 35 years behind the counter and a family legacy exceeding 50 years. Fortunately, there’s a glimmer of hope, as a new tenant plans to take over the establishment in the coming year.
And now also the Grauer Bock in Große Rittergasse is set to close its doors for good. The last day for this beloved establishment, known for its Schoppenpetzer, will coincide with Black Thursday. A friendly waiter cited “many reasons” for the closure, though he hinted that “age” played a significant role in the decision. Götz Elsässer and his wife have been at the helm of this renowned restaurant, strategically located at the entrance to the Ebbelwei district, for decades.
The Elsässers chose not to discuss their reasons for closure publicly. However, their heartfelt communication to loyal patrons read: “Giving up such a family business, which is run with pride and conviction, is not an easy decision.”
Family owned for over 100 years
The illustrious history of the Grauer Bock is remarkable, having been in the Elsässer family for over a century. “In 1907, Valentin Elsässer and his wife Eva Rosina purchased what is now the main building. Initially, the Grauer Bock was a bar frequented by carters, craftsmen, livestock merchants, and butchers from the nearby slaughterhouse, creating a vibrant community hub.” This description is echoed on the establishment’s website, which aptly captures its rich heritage.
What happens next for the Grauer Bock remains shrouded in uncertainty, especially as its fate may involve considerations of monument protection. Götz Elsässer expresses deep gratitude, stating, “We are thankful for so many guests who have remained loyal to us over the decades and have given us so many beautiful moments.” Numerous old photographs, a ribbed plate, and a lid are some of the reminders of the history that will be left behind.
According to local folklore, the tale of the Schwarzer Bock restaurant—once situated at Elisabethenstrasse 8—intertwines with the legendary treasure of Ulrichstein, a historical landmark with ties to the Sachsenhausen defense towers. Its suggested circular foundation can still be evidenced on the Schaumainkai road, bridging the Eiserner Steg and the Dreikönigskirche.
There, an innkeeper and two mercenaries purportedly discovered an alchemist’s hidden treasure. This treasure, said to be guarded by a fearsome black goat, was successfully retrieved by the trio who evaded the creature’s vigilance. The once-struggling landlord then established a new establishment, aptly naming it the Schwarzer Bock in homage to his good fortune.
And then there was the mysterious White Bock, about which little is known. Locally acclaimed historian Stefan Krämer, dedicated to chronicling the history of Stöffche, continues to collect and preserve narratives and memorabilia related to this facet of Frankfurt’s cultural tapestry, offering resources on his insightful website: www.ebbelwoi-frankfurt.de.
Shment’s website and reflects its longstanding role in Frankfurt’s social fabric. Through various phases of history, the Grauer Bock has managed to remain a cherished gathering spot for locals, becoming synonymous with cider culture in the region.
As we bid farewell to such iconic establishments, it’s critical to remember their contributions—a mixture of laughter, libations, and life stories that have often shaped the characters of neighborhoods. The Grauer Bock isn’t just another bar; it’s a testament to community, where memories were forged over a shared love for apple wine and camaraderie.
The closure of the Grauer Bock, along with other venerable spots, speaks to a broader trend that many cities face: the struggle to maintain cultural heritage in the face of modernization. Each closing represents not just the loss of a business but a slice of local history that can’t be replicated. It’s a poignant reminder that while time marches on, some traditions deserve to be held onto, even as we embrace change.
So, let’s raise a glass to the owners, patrons, and memories of the Grauer Bock and its fellow taverns. Their stories will linger on, etched into the hearts of lifelong visitors, as we continue to celebrate the joys of cider and the connections forged within those cherished walls. The hope is that new concepts and tenants can carry the torch, honoring the past while crafting new memories for generations to come. Here’s to the power of cider, community, and the rich tapestry of life that weaves through our vibrant cities!
