“It is urgent to regulate” the use of glyoxylic acid, warns Laurence Coiffard, professor of cosmetology

Glyoxylic Acid: The Haircare Hazard You Didn’t Know You Were Taking

Ah, brilliant! The Brazilian straightening trend—what could go wrong? I mean, who doesn’t want hair so sleek that it could double as a mirror? But hold your horses (and hair), because it seems like we might need to *rethink* those glossy locks. Laurence Coiffard, our resident wizard at the University of Nantes, is waving a big red flag about glyoxylic acid! Sounds scary, doesn’t it? Well, it should!

Warning: Glyoxylic acid is being linked to kidney failure. You might want to skip that straightening session!

So, what’s the fuss? According to Coiffard, glyoxylic acid is about as well-known to the public as a French government official at a karaoke bar—meaning, not at all! In fact, she describes it as “mysterious and very rare.” Rare, like finding an honest politician or a good British weather forecast!

Now, before you start plucking the hair from your head in despair, let’s understand the issue. Glyoxylic acid was introduced to replace formalin—which, let’s be honest, sounds like something you’d find in a lab rather than your bathroom cabinet. Why? Because formalin is irritating, allergenic, and oh yeah, carcinogenic! So, you know, not quite what you’d call a ‘win-win’ situation.

Coiffard urges better regulation of glyoxylic acid’s use in haircare products. And why is that important? Because while the European regulations keep most cosmetics relatively safe, there’s always a limit. It’s like letting kids have cookies at a birthday party—you can have some, but not the entire jar!

Now, here’s the kicker. Since the beginning of 2024, France has reportedly seen FOUR cases of kidney failure linked to these Brazilian straightening products. Not exactly a beauty trend you want to be part of! Doctor Juliette Bloch from ANSES explains that when glyoxylic acid enters the bloodstream, it can form tiny crystals in the kidneys, effectively turning them into some sort of crystalized horror movie scene.

If you find yourself feeling unwell after a straightening session—think nausea, abdominal pain, or lower back pain—you might want to consult a doctor ASAP! Trust me, explaining that you may have turned your hair into a toxic wasteland isn’t exactly an entry-level conversation.

Oh, and don’t think you’re in the clear just yet! Glyoxylic acid isn’t just hanging out in Brazilian straightening creams; it’s also lurking in certain hair masks and those oh-so-pampering shampoos that claim to preserve your hair color. So, before you blindly lather up, keep an eye on the ingredients because, as they say, ignorance in beauty can lead to some very expensive lessons!

In a zesty twist, ANSES is launching a Europe-wide alert regarding glyoxylic acid—because nothing screams “let’s clean up the beauty industry” like a continent-wide crisis! The EU has the power to take action, but until they do, the wise would glance over their bathroom shelves and perhaps rethink their haircare antics.

In conclusion, folks, silky smooth hair shouldn’t come at the cost of your health. Give a big round of applause to those at the forefront warning us about potentially hazardous ingredients like glyoxylic acid—let’s keep our kidneys happy while we chase those gorgeous locks! Cheers to a healthier, more informed beauty routine!

While ANSES warns about the composition of Brazilian straightening products, Laurence Coiffard is calling for better regulation of glyoxylic acid.

Published on 10/16/2024 4:54 p.m.

Reading time: 2min “It is urgent to regulate” the use of glyoxylic acid, warns a cosmetology professor, illustrative photo. (MARIO CASTELLO/CORBIS/VCG / CORBIS RF STILLS / GETTY IMAGES)

“It is urgent to regulate” the use of glyoxylic acid in products used to do Brazilian straightening on the hair, alert Wednesday October 16 on franceinfo Laurence Coiffard, professor of cosmetology at the University of Nantes. The National Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health Safety (ANSES) warns of the presence of this component which can cause kidney failure.

“Glyoxylic acid is not known to the general public”, explains Laurence Coiffard. “It’s a fairly mysterious and very rare ingredient” who is not “absolutely not regulated”. She also warns against glycolic acid “very common in anti-aging or acne products”. This component can metabolize [se transformer] in glyoxylic acid.

With European regulations, “overall the compositions of cosmetics are safe” and the “manufacturing is controlled”, according to the researcher. But “there is a limit”, she warns. “Glyoxylic acid was introduced into this type of shampoo to replace formalin which is irritating, allergenic and carcinogenic”she explains. “You have to be careful about the substitutes you choose.”

In France, four cases of kidney failure linked to glyoxylic acid present in Brazilian straightening products have been recorded since the start of 2024. The Directorate General for Health and Fraud Control advises against using these products. “Glyoxylic acid will cause, when it passes into the blood, the formation of small crystals in the kidneys and it is these crystals which will block the kidney,” explains Doctor Juliette Bloch, director of alerts at Anses. “By drinking a lot, it will dilute them, flush them out and kidney function returns to normal”she adds.

In most cases there are no after-effects, but you should consult quickly if you start to feel bad after straightening. Juliette Bloch, the director of alerts at Anses, warns if, after having done a Brazilian straightening, “symptoms” appear “in the following hours”. “It can be nausea, abdominal pain, lower back pain. You should then consult your general practitioner, specifying that you have had Brazilian straightening or call a poison control center.”

ANSES has launched an alert at European level, because it is the European Union which has the power to ban the use of glyoxylic acid in cosmetic products. This substance is also found in certain hair masks or in shampoos that preserve coloring.

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