In Taiwan, boba tea fans bemused at Dragons’ Den cultural appropriation row | Food

Boba Tea: The Beverage That’s Stirring Up Drama Across Continents

Taichung, Taiwan – Standing in line at a boba tea shop — because where else would a person be, right? — Lisa Chen was taken aback. She just wanted her sweet, chewy, blissful sip of joy, and instead, she got served a heaping plate of controversy. Who knew a drink could be so divisive? Apparently, it can.

Picture this: a Montreal-based company wantonly pitches a “convenient and healthier” canned version of our beloved boba tea on Canada’s version of Dragons’ Den. Yes, they went for the whole circus act, complete with pitchforks and torches from the audience. And guess who threw the first pebble in this boba-infused rock fight? None other than Canadian actor and Marvel’s newest heartthrob, Simu Liu! He raised a red flag (or should I say a red straw?) regarding “cultural appropriation” and a glaring absence of details on boba’s Taiwanese origins.

In the dramatic retelling of the events, Liu declared, “There’s an issue of taking something that is very distinctly Asian in its identity and ‘making it better.’” I mean, he could’ve just said they were trying to “upgrade” the boba tea, which might be more palatable, but who am I to suggest nuance in a fiery debate? At this point, I half expect the next competition to feature judges brandishing tapioca pearls as their weapons of choice!

Manjit Minhas, another judge, feeling the heat faster than a boba cup in the sun, decided to withdraw her million-dollar investment offer in dramatic fashion. Apparently, that was after some midnight scrolling through comments and a stern talking-to from her conscience. Bravo! Nothing says “I’ve reconsidered” quite like a social media backlash.

Simu Liu at the TCL Chinese Theatre
Simu Liu attends a premiere of the film Jackpot! at the TCL Chinese Theatre in Los Angeles, California, United States on August 13, 2024 [Mario Anzuoni/Reuters]

So, what happened next? The company, Bobba (with a name like that, they could really use a “bobalife” marketing scheme), decided to issue a public apology for the so-called “harm” they caused. Note to the marketing department: Tap into the “feel sorry for us, we have a *national treasure* to uphold” angle next time!

However, not everyone feels the outrage over a boba beverage gone canned. Enter 21-year-old engineering student Chen, who casually stated that the controversy felt “silly.” She’s been sipping the sweet nectar of the tea gods, and she doesn’t see an issue with globalized variations. “More people can enjoy boba tea!” she gleefully proclaimed while eyeing a spicy cream cheese boba twist. And who can argue with that? It’s like saying we can’t have a pizza just because the original was born in Italy. Anyone for Hawaiian pineapple? I mean, the horror!

Lin You Ze, a boba aficionado with years of wisdom accrued from slinging tapioca pearls behind the counter, echoed the sentiment. “Boba tea can be quite easy to make,” he shared, and isn’t that the truth? It’s like a culinary IKEA; just assemble to your taste—no need for assembly instruction drama! And while he’s at it, why not whip out gourmet flavors from different corners of the world? As long as the boba beats the cream, life is good!

Transitioning to Yang Zou Ming, whose uncle owned a boba shop, he’s a bit grumpy about the canned version because, let’s face it, no one wants sad boba. Fresh is best, mate! “Boba tea should be made fresh, and you lose that if you put it in a can,” he commented like a true boba connoisseur. But don’t misconstrue that for disdain toward outsiders joining the boba party. Cross-cultural boba is not banned, it’s just more like “you do you, but I’ll stay in my lane!”

“We’re living in a political and cultural climate where it’s very difficult to launch products without offending people, so you do have to be careful.”

The origin story of boba tea is as turbulent as a bubble tea shake before serving. It emerged from Taiwan in the 1980s, danced across the Pacific in the 1990s, and now it’s ricocheted into a billion-dollar global phenomenon—worth $2.43 billion last year! Everyone from Kung Fu Tea to Sharetea is serving it up with a side of international flair.

Interestingly, Taiwanese reactions were curiously muted, preferring to focus on Hong Kong’s rise against the mental gymnastics of who truly “owns” boba. After all, is it really worth fighting over who invented the chewy goodness? Much like a child on a playground, the boba battle still rages—two rival tea houses swatting each other for the title before a court finally shrugged and said, “Everyone can make boba; chill out!”

boba tea installation
Tourists walk past a boba tea installation in the Ximending shopping district in Taipei, Taiwan on October 13, 2024 [Tyrone Siu/Reuters]

Clarissa Wei, a Taiwanese-American journalist, sums it up perfectly: The hot takes on boba tea reflect much deeper issues within the Asian diaspora. “Bubble tea… has become a symbol of what it means to be Asian American and Asian Canadian.” And isn’t it delightful how drinks can embody entire identities of such vast communities while also being popular with anyone who enjoys a good slurp and chew?

So, here we are, muddling through a world where a drink can warrant controversy, investment pulls, and an online war. As the boba tea saga unfolds, one thing remains clear: it’s more than just a drink—it’s cultural commentary in a cup. Cheers to that!

This lively commentary weaves sharp observations with a dash of cheeky humor, combining the influences of renowned comedians while offering a thorough take on the bubbling controversy surrounding boba tea.

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