2024-10-14 19:26:00
On rainy days there is always someone who says: there is no bad weather, only bad clothes. A clincher with a grain of truth, although the rain-soaked recipient is not always happy with it. Yet suitable clothing is becoming increasingly important, because extreme rain showers have become normal due to climate change.
There is only one problem: most rainwear contains pfas. For decades, pfas was the standard ingredient for water-repellent and waterproof clothing. It was the response of companies like Gore-Tex (Teflon) to the needs of both mountain-climbing outdoor athletes and cycling commuters.
And now pfas is everywhere because it is not biodegradable and continues to roam in the environment. We all literally contribute to that. With 35 percent of demand, the textile industry is one of the largest users of pfas, according to the RIVM.
Also in sleeping bags
Environmental organization Greenpeace put pressure on outdoor companies for years to stop using pfas from 2012 onwards. Quite a challenge, because it is not only in rain gear, but also in hiking boots, sleeping bags and tents. Some products tested by Greenpeace contained pfas variants that were already banned in Europe at the time of the study. Moreover, it turned out that products without pfas can be contaminated by products with pfas. This happens in textile factories that do not sufficiently separate their production chains and in outdoor shops that display both types of clothing next to each other.
German Greenpeace researchers found in 2016 that the concentration of volatile PFAs in outdoor shops was 20 to 60 times higher than in an office, and up to a thousand times higher than in the open air.
Not pleasant outcomes, especially because many outdoor sports brands pride themselves on their love for nature. Companies such as Paramo, Rotauf, Fjällräven and Vaude committed to phasing out pfas at an early stage of the Greenpeace campaign. Major brands such as Patagonia and The North Face did not do this, or did so only much later, when stricter legislation appeared on the horizon. The European Commission is expected to decide on a total ban on pfas in the course of 2025.
Zippers are difficult
The movement to pfas-free is widely supported in the outdoor industry, although the speed at which companies make the switch varies. Some brands are replacing the most notorious pfas varieties with types that less was known about for years; they replace the so-called long chain variants, with six to eight carbon atoms, with shorter chain variants. Other brands are phasing out pfas in (most) parts of clothing, but not in the entire product. For example, waterproof zippers are difficult to make without pfas.
Anyone who wants to brave the rain completely PFAS-free can buy with confidence from the brands mentioned above, which joined the Greenpeace campaign at an early stage. If you prefer more choice, you can try an outdoor store. Bever’s range is not yet completely pfas-free. You cannot select for this in the webshop, unlike online outdoor sports chain Bergfreunde, which does offer pfas-vrij as a selection option.
Decathlon has set itself the goal of no longer selling products containing pfas from this year, but it is unclear whether this has been achieved. The ANWB says that no PFAs is added to their (rain) clothing, with the caveat that complete PFAs-free is difficult to guarantee due to the risk of cross-contamination in the production and distribution process.
Traditional wax coats
Another option for everyday use is clothing made of tightly woven fabric, which can be made water-repellent as needed. Outdoor brand Fjällräven uses a cotton-polyester mix (G-1000) in many products, which becomes water-repellent (not waterproof) with Greenland wax.
Traditional wax jackets are available in models such as ‘hunter’, ‘heritage’ and ‘horseman’. The water-repellent treatment is available in solid form (wax) and spray. People who cycle for miles or take long walks in wet weather will benefit more from a waterproof jacket. In addition to a water-repellent layer, such a jacket has a membrane that retains moisture from the outside and allows moisture from the inside (sweat and condensation) to evaporate to the outside. This way you are protected from the sweaty effect of raincoats without a membrane.
In pfas-free waterproof jackets, the membrane is often made of polyester, nylon or polyurethane (PU). Every water-repellent layer, including those on ponchos and umbrellas, wears out through use. Occasionally such a low maintenance needs. Impregnating agents from Nikwax, Grangers and the Bever house brand Buitenmens Care, among others, do not contain pfas.
In short, pfas can be found in all waterproof or water-repellent products. It’s only on the label if it’s not there, and even that is no guarantee. When purchasing new items, it is a matter of paying close attention or waiting for stricter legislation. Otherwise, resigning yourself to bad weather might help. Because there is always someone who says: you are not made of sugar.
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