As one of the cornerstones of streetwear, Stussy has been popular since the 1980s. The brand has been in the fashion industry for over 40 years, but its founder, Sean Stussy, actually left the company in 1996. Recently, this street OG announced his comeback, sparking heated discussions. He wrote on Instagram, “The young horse may win the race, but this old horse has been out for too long… Retirement is a good thing, but it’s time to embark on a long journey in the future.” He also mentioned several projects in the works this year.
Shortly following announcing his return, people noticed a sign outside the Melbourne headquarters of Australian skateboard shoe brand Globe, written in Stüssy’s classic handwriting: “Hello Australia and New Zealand, Shawn Stussy is here to let you know that I have a new project with the Hill brothers and the Globe team. We will be Single/Double. We both started over 30 years ago, and following I retired, the tides changed and we found ourselves in a position to try once more! I hope you approve and hold space for our collaboration, I’m happy and ready to shake things up once more, Aloha.”
It seems the primary purpose of this comeback is to collaborate with Globe and revive his surfing brand S/DOUBLE. People can’t help but wonder, what else will he bring?
The “founder” of street culture from California beaches
Stussy
Growing up in California, Shawn Stussy was immersed in both surfing and graphic art from a young age. His parents owned a printing shop, where he learned silkscreen printing and other techniques. His uncle, Jan Stussy, was a prolific painter who even won an Oscar for Best Documentary Short. Growing up in this creative environment, Shawn Stussy started his artistic journey by using surfboards as canvases in middle school. In February 1980, he painted his iconic graffiti-style signature logo on a surfboard, marking the beginning of his journey.
On Mammoth Mountain in California, Shawn Stussy met Frank Sinatra Jr. through a mutual friend. Shawn, who was already selling surfboards and clothing with his signature tag, and the accountant who loved surfing culture, hit it off and co-founded the Stüssy brand in 1984. Initially, Frank continued working in the original company, and most of the funds came from his savings. This freedom from external pressure allowed the founders to infuse the brand with the carefree spirit of the California beaches.
Stüssy’s most famous interlocking double “S” logo is a parody of Chanel’s iconic double “C”. This rebellious and playful attitude, different from the mainstream at the time, appealed to young people. As Shawn Stussy traveled to cities like London, Paris, and Tokyo, he connected with like-minded individuals in music, fashion, and culture. He also sent Stüssy clothing to creative individuals and fashion gurus worldwide, giving birth to a community called “International Stüssy Tribe”.
Stussy
This tribe became an integral part of street culture. IST members were found all over the world, including New York, London, Tokyo, and Milan. They later became prominent figures in street culture. Some of these members include “Godfather” Fujiwara Hiroshi, Slam Jam founder Luca Benini, Gimme 5 founder Michael Kopelman, street artist Keith Haring, director and musician Don Letts, musician, actor, and visual artist Goldie, senior A&R, and music producer Dante Ross. As a symbol of IST’s identity, Stüssy’s first baseball jacket “Homeboy” was created in 1987 and gifted to each member. Since then, Stüssy has released an IST Varsity Jacket for limited sale on every anniversary, making these jackets a coveted item.
One person who played a vital role in bringing Stüssy from Laguna Beach to the forefront of street culture was James Jebbia. In 1991, under Jebbia’s strong persuasion, Shawn Stussy agreed to open the brand’s first flagship store in Soho, New York. The following year, the brand’s revenue reached $20 million. Jebbia went on to become the founder of the renowned brand Supreme.
Parted ways with the namesake brand Stüssy
Stussy
In 1996, Shawn Stussy decided to leave the brand. This departure, marking the absence of the brand’s soul, was a significant blow. Fortunately, Shawn left behind a rich creative legacy, including graffiti fonts, 8-balls, crowns, dice, double “S” logos, and his partner Frank Sinatra Jr. successfully consolidated these classic elements. After taking over, Frank revitalized the brand through various business expansions.
The following year, Stüssy launched its first official collaboration with G-SHOCK, releasing the G-SHOCK DW-6900 watch, which received a warm reception. G-SHOCK became a long-term partner for Stüssy. In footwear, the joint series between Stüssy and Nike is undoubtedly one of the brand’s most impactful long-term collaborations. From the first Stüssy x Nike Air Huarache LE to the recent Stüssy x Nike Air Max Penny 2, these collaborations have gained immense popularity.
Apart from collaborations, the launch of multiple product lines has also strengthened Stüssy’s market competitiveness. In 1996, when Shawn Stussy left, the brand launched its first women’s clothing line, Stüssy Women, based on the Stüssy Sista Gear 25-piece women’s clothing series developed with Australian designers Felicity Rulikowski and Bernadette Wier in 1993. This expansion aimed to tap into the female streetwear market. Then, in 2008, the brand established the high-end branch line Deluxe, and in 2011, it launched the Japanese branch line STÜSSY Livin’ GENERAL STORE, focusing on lifestyle accessories.
Stussy
Building and expanding communities is another strategy that Stüssy adopted to revive itself. The brand realized that its surfing roots and the International Stüssy Tribe’s influence were insufficient during its struggling period. So, at the suggestion of photographer Robbie Jeffers (later the manager of the Nike SB team), Stüssy established a skateboard team in 1999 to connect with the mainstream streetwear audience. By 2000, Stüssy had renowned skateboarders on its team, including Keith Hufnagel (later the founder of HUF), Richard Mulder, Danny Montoya, and Chad Timtim.
Thanks to Frank Sinatra Jr.’s efforts, Stüssy continued moving forward steadily. By 2014, the brand’s annual revenue surpassed $50 million. That same year, his son David Sinatra took over as CEO. Subsequently, Stüssy experienced a few years of decline. This downturn was attributed to a dilution of brand value due to over-expansion and the emergence of high-end street fashion. However, shortly following, Stüssy experienced a resurgence, largely due to the contributions of creative individuals behind the scenes. Tremaine Emory, the founder of Denim Tears, was once a creative consultant for Stüssy, serving as the brand’s art and brand director before launching his own brand.
Stussy
Stüssy also started paying more attention to its store image. To address the lack of uniformity during its early years of rapid expansion, Stüssy began redesigning its Stüssy Chapter flagship stores. Beginning with the Toronto flagship store in 2008, Stüssy collaborated with the renowned design firm Perron-Roettinger to create integrated retail spaces with a unified visual language, reflecting local culture around the world.
Stüssy recognizes that its fans’ affinity for the brand stems from their admiration for its culture. To further explore its archives, the brand opened its first experimental store “Stüssy Archive” in Santa Ana, California, in November 2018. The store showcases the brand’s archives from different eras, including past collaborations, hidden works, art pieces, and furniture. A second “Stüssy Archive” opened in New York in May of this year.
Single/Double
Meanwhile, Shawn Stussy, following a period of retirement, wasn’t content with being idle. In the late 2000s, he collaborated with a Japanese creative team to develop a new brand, S/DOUBLE, which launched officially in 2010. The brand’s name originates from the nickname his wife gave him. The brand’s overall style is slightly more mature than Stüssy, including shoes like Derbies and Brogues, and handmade surfboards, though it hasn’t completely abandoned its street roots. The brand primarily sold in Japan and collaborated with brands like NEIGHBORHOOD, PORTER, and LOOPWHEELER. However, S/DOUBLE remained less popular than its “eldest son,” Stüssy, and ceased operations in 2016.
Shawn Stussy remained in a “retired” state until the collaboration with Dior was revealed at the end of 2019. It was Fraser Cooke (the founder of Nike’s trend planning) who introduced the two parties, and they had a prior understanding of each other. After having lunch together, this project took off organically. Kim Jones, known for his love of streetwear, claims to have been a loyal Stüssy fan since he was 14 years old, and this collaboration fulfilled his childhood dream. For this project, Shawn designed two logos, two bee patterns, and multiple Monograms for Dior.
The old horse who knows the way starts a new journey
Sean Stussy
Interestingly, Shawn Stussy filed an application to register the name “Shawn” as a trademark on December 3, 2019 (the day following his collaboration with Dior was announced), covering categories like clothing, jewelry, leather products, sailing equipment, diving suits, etc. While the reason for the trademark’s subsequent abandonment is unknown, his intention to make a comeback was clear. This recent “return” was not a spontaneous decision.
Earlier this year, Shawn Stussy previewed his collaboration with Land Rover, which is likely one of the projects he mentioned earlier. The images revealed a few clues, including Land Rover’s birthplace, Solihull Warwickshire, England, Shawn Stussy’s name, and the renowned American car modification factory, Commonwealth Classics. It is possible that this collaboration might not be an official partnership between Stüssy and Land Rover. Instead, Shawn Stussy and Commonwealth Classics may be creating a special edition custom Land Rover model. This Virginia-based car factory is known for restoring classic Land Rover models.
The revival of S/DOUBLE might be the overarching theme of his return. Shawn Stussy seemingly hasn’t given up on his surfing brand, which met an abrupt end eight years ago. The shift in partners for this brand, from the Ura-Harajuku creative team to a Melbourne skateboard brand, suggests a potential change in S/DOUBLE’s style. Whether it will be more attuned to Western perspectives and skateboarding culture is uncertain. However, California surfing culture will undoubtedly remain the core of the brand.
Julius Ignacio/Hypebeast
Shawn Stussy has indeed chosen an opportune time for his collaborations. Recent years have witnessed the brand’s growing popularity through collaborations and sales with notable units like Our Legacy. Furthermore, the public’s aesthetic tastes are trending back toward the first generation of street fashion. As Shawn Stussy wrote in his comeback statement, “Young horses run fast, but old horses know what happened.” In this age of continuous next-generation cultural iterations and aesthetic fatigue, the street OG stepped back to rectify the fashion world. The trends have changed significantly since his retirement. It remains to be seen whether this old horse returning to the track can keep up with the pace, but it’s still exciting to see what he’ll achieve.
The Return of Shawn Stussy: What Will This Street OG Bring Back to Fashion?
As one of the cornerstones of streetwear, Stussy has been popular since the 1980s. Stussy has been in the fashion industry for over 40 years, but its founder, Sean Stussy, left the brand in 1996. Recently, the street OG surprised everyone with the news of his comeback. On Instagram, he wrote, “The young horse may win the race, but this old horse has been out for too long…Retirement is a good thing, but it’s time to embark on a long journey in the future,” adding that he has several projects lined up for the year.
Shortly following announcing his return, a sign was found outside the Melbourne headquarters of Australian skateboard shoe brand Globe, featuring Stüssy’s classic handwriting: “Hello Australia and New Zealand, Shawn Stussy is here to let you know that I have a new project with the Hill brothers and the Globe team. We will be Single/Double. We both started over 30 years ago, and following I retired, the tides changed and we found ourselves in a position to try once more! I hope you approve and hold space for our collaboration, I’m happy and ready to shake things up once more, Aloha.”
With this return, many are wondering what the “old horse” will bring, especially with the revival of his surfing brand S/DOUBLE in collaboration with Globe.
The “Founder” of Street Culture from California Beaches
Stüssy
Shawn Stussy grew up in California, where he was exposed to graphic art from a young age. His parents owned a printing shop, and he learned silkscreen printing and other techniques early on. His uncle, Jan Stussy, was a prolific artist who even won an Oscar for Best Documentary Short. This unique environment nurtured Shawn’s creative spirit, and he began using surfboards as canvases in middle school. In February 1980, fate took a turn when he first painted his iconic graffiti-styled signature logo on a surfboard.
While on Mammoth Mountain in California, Shawn met Frank Sinatra Jr., who had a friend in common with Shawn. At the time, Shawn was selling surfboards and clothing with his signature tag. A mutual love for surf culture brought Shawn and Frank together, leading them to co-found the Stüssy brand in 1984. Frank, who was still working in the original company, financed the early stages of the brand with his savings. The lack of pressure from external funds allowed the two founders to infuse the brand with the free-spirited atmosphere of California beaches.
Stüssy’s famous interlocking double “S” logo is a playful parody of Chanel’s double “C”. This rebellious and unique approach attracted young people who were tired of mainstream fashion. Shawn took the brand on a journey, traveling to London, Paris, and Tokyo, where he met like-minded individuals within music, fashion, and culture. He sent clothes to creative individuals and fashion icons around the world, fostering the birth of a community called the “International Stüssy Tribe.”
Stussy
The International Stüssy Tribe (IST) is a powerful force in street culture. IST members were spread throughout the world, including New York, London, Tokyo, Milan, and more. They have since become influential figures within the street culture scene. Notable IST members include: “Godfather” Hiroshi Fujiwara, Slam Jam founder Luca Benini, Gimme 5 founder Michael Kopelman, street artist Keith Haring, director and musician Don Letts, musician, actor, and visual artist Goldie, and senior A&R, music producer Dante Ross. Stüssy’s first baseball jacket, “Homeboy,” was created in 1987, and served as a symbol of the IST community. These jackets were given to each member and have become a sought-following trendy item, with limited releases on every anniversary.
One individual in particular propelled Stüssy from Laguna Beach to the forefront of street culture. James Jebbia, the future founder of Supreme, convinced Shawn Stussy to open the brand’s first flagship store in Soho, New York, in 1991. The following year, the brand’s revenue hit $20 million.
Parting Ways with the Namesake Brand Stüssy
Stussy
In 1996, Shawn Stussy opted to step away from the brand. Although a major blow, he left behind a rich creative legacy, including graffiti fonts, 8-balls, crowns, dice, and double “S” logos. Partner Frank Sinatra Jr. was also adept at consolidating these classic elements, and he began revitalizing the brand through various business expansions following taking over.
The following year, Stüssy collaborated with G-SHOCK to release the G-SHOCK DW-6900 watch, a collaboration that received a positive reception and cemented G-SHOCK as one of Stüssy’s long-term partners. When it comes to footwear, Stüssy’s collaborations with Nike are some of the most influential, starting with the first Stüssy x Nike Air Huarache LE and culminating in the recent Stüssy x Nike Air Max Penny 2, which garnered significant popularity.
Stüssy’s market competitiveness was further increased through the launch of multiple product lines. In 1996, the year Shawn left, the brand introduced its first women’s clothing line, Stüssy Women, which built on the influence of the 25-piece Stüssy Sista Gear women’s clothing series developed in 1993 with Australian designers Felicity Rulikowski and Bernadette Wier. Aiming to expand into the female streetwear market, they launched the high-end branch line Deluxe in 2008 and the Japanese branch line STÜSSY Livin’ GENERAL STORE in 2011, focused on lifestyle accessories.
Stussy
Building and expanding communities was another strategy Stüssy used to maintain its success. In 1999, photographer Robbie Jeffers, future manager of the Nike SB team, suggested that Stüssy establish a skateboard team to reach a broader mainstream streetwear audience. By the year 2000, Stüssy had a team of well-known skateboarders, including Keith Hufnagel (founder of HUF), Richard Mulder, Danny Montoya, and Chad Timtim.
Frank Sinatra Jr.’s efforts propelled Stüssy toward continuous growth. The brand’s annual revenue exceeded $50 million by 2014. His son, David Sinatra, became CEO that same year. Stüssy experienced a downturn in subsequent years, with the brand’s value being diluted by overexpansion and the rise of high-end street fashion. Stüssy experienced a resurgence shortly following, largely due to behind-the-scenes creative contributions from Tremaine Emory, the founder of Denim Tears. Emory briefly served as Stüssy’s art and brand director before launching her own brand.
Stussy
Stüssy began paying more attention to its store image to compensate for its earlier rapid expansion into numerous commercial landmarks. The brand began redesigning its flagship Stüssy Chapter stores. Beginning with the Toronto flagship store in 2008, Stüssy partnered with industry-renowned design firm Perron-Roettinger to create retail spaces with a unified visual language that integrated with local culture around the world.
Stüssy understands that fans’ loyalty stems from their admiration for the brand’s culture. As a result, the brand explored its archival assets and opened its first experimental store, “Stüssy Archive,” in Santa Ana, California, in November 2018. The store showcased the brand’s archives spanning multiple eras, including past collaborations, hidden works, artwork, and furniture. The brand opened a second “Stüssy Archive” in New York in May of this year.
Single/Double
Meanwhile, Shawn Stussy sought to remain creatively active during his period of “retirement.” He joined forces with a Japanese creative team in the late 2000s to develop S/DOUBLE, a new brand that officially launched in 2010. The brand name was derived from the nickname his wife gave him. S/DOUBLE presented a slightly more mature style than Stüssy, incorporating shoes like Derby and Brogues, along with handmade surfboards, but it maintained ties to street roots. The brand was primarily sold in Japan and had collaborations with companies like NEIGHBORHOOD, PORTER, and LOOPWHEELER. However, S/DOUBLE never reached the same popularity as its “eldest son” Stüssy, and it ceased operations in 2016.
Shawn Stussy remained in a “retired” state until a collaboration with Dior was announced in late 2019. This news brought the OG back into the spotlight. In a Hypebeast interview, Shawn revealed that Fraser Cooke (founder of Nike’s trend planning) introduced the two parties, and they already shared a mutual understanding. After a lunch together, the project began naturally. For Kim Jones, the collaboration fulfilled a childhood dream. Known for his love of streetwear, the fashion designer asserted that he became a loyal fan of Stüssy at the age of 14. Shawn designed two logos, two bee patterns, and several Monograms for Dior.
The Old Horse Who Knows the Way Begins a New Journey
Sean Stussy
Shawn Stussy filed an application to register the name “Shawn” as a trademark on December 3, 2019 (the day following the news of his collaboration with Dior was announced). The intended categories covered clothing, jewelry, leather products, sailing equipment and instruments, diving suits, and more. While the reason for the trademark application’s later abandonment remains unclear, Shawn’s intent to return was evident. His current “comeback” is not a sudden development.
Early this year, Shawn Stussy unveiled a preview of his collaboration with Land Rover, one of the projects he mentioned for the year. Clues from the revealed images include Land Rover’s birthplace, Solihull Warwickshire, England; Shawn Stussy’s name; and the renowned American car modification factory, Commonwealth Classics. This collaboration is likely not an official partnership between Stüssy and Land Rover. Instead, Shawn Stussy, in partnership with Commonwealth Classics, may be creating a special edition, customized Land Rover model. This Virginia car factory is known for restoring classic Land Rover models.
S/DOUBLE’s revival may be the main focus of this return. Clearly, Shawn Stussy is reluctant to abandon his surfing brand, which ended abruptly eight years ago. Partnering with a Melbourne skateboard brand rather than the Ura-Harajuku creative team might signify a shift in S/DOUBLE’s style. Whether the brand will lean more towards the Western local perspective of skateboarding culture remains unknown. However, California surfing culture will undoubtedly remain the core of the brand.
Julius Ignacio/Hypebeast
Shawn Stussy has chosen an opportune time for this collaboration. Recent collaborations and sales with popular brands such as Our Legacy demonstrate that Stüssy as a brand has been growing significantly. Additionally, there’s a noticeable trend of the public’s aesthetic preference returning to the first generation of street fashion. Perhaps, as Shawn Stussy wrote in his return declaration, “Young horses run fast, but old horses know what happened.” In an environment where next-generation culture and public aesthetic fatigue are prevalent, the street OG opted to come back and re-shape the fashion world. Times have changed considerably since his retirement. Whether this old horse can keep up with the current pace remains to be seen, but it’s exciting to anticipate what he will bring back to the fashion circle.
