2023-12-21 20:36:04
Copenhagen Fashion Week is the home of sustainable fashion labels, and one of them belongs to designer Rolf Ekroth, who will be taking part in Danish Fashion Week for the second time with his label of the same name at the end of January. A month before the start of Copenhagen Fashion Week F/W 2024, our fashion editor Gina Kisters chatted with Rolf Ekroth and found out how exactly he deals with the topic of sustainability in relation to fashion.
Interview with Rolf Ekroth
FSB: Copenhagen Fashion Week is considered a pioneer for sustainability and has also developed sustainability criteria for itself and the participating labels. How has participating in Copenhagen Fashion Week influenced the development of your label, especially in terms of its focus on sustainability?
I don’t think the criteria had much influence on my work. During the pandemic, I’ve had more time to think regarding the decisions I make regarding my brand. That’s why I worked with a Finnish energy company called Fortum during the pandemic. They develop this amazing fabric from the basic material of straw, and when you do a project like this, you naturally start thinking regarding the other choices you make. At that time I thought it was time to be as environmentally friendly as possible and always make better choices. Copenhagen Fashion Week just showed me that I’m on the right track, and of course the criteria you have to meet to be included in the calendar are challenging and quite demanding, but I think it’s for you really good and innovative purpose.
FSB: Could you specifically talk regarding some of the Copenhagen Fashion Week sustainability criteria that your brand meets and how did these influence the design of your collection?
My collection usually consists of 60 to 80% recycled materials. We buy some stock materials left over from manufacturers and when we work with digital printing, we choose to work with companies that reuse recycled plastic bottles for this.
I was able to take part in the young talent program at Copenhagen Fashion Week, so that helps a little. I don’t have to fully meet all the criteria as it is more difficult as a smaller, more independent brand. For example, one criterion relates to what plans you have to eradicate racism in your company, but if it’s just one person, that’s a little more difficult. I think the criteria are really good and important for Copenhagen Fashion Week, but they cannot be fully applied to all different company sizes.
FSB: What motivated you to found a fashion label that focuses on sustainability?
When I started, I didn’t fully focus on sustainability. I learned that quality is more important than quantity. That’s why it’s fundamentally sustainable to start your own small label because you don’t overproduce anything. I founded the brand because I was lucky and found investors. Usually there isn’t much fashion background in Finland, so it was rare to find people who believed in me. I already had a job offer from a Parisian fashion house, but when I got the chance to start my own label, I had to take it.
Where do you draw your inspiration from? What fabrics/materials do you like to work with the most?
I tried to choose more and more new materials from nature. When I started I was very interested in technical materials like nylon or polyester because I think my aesthetic has always had a bit to do with sport. Next season we have regarding 50% or even maybe 60% wool, I I’m not entirely sure as the collection isn’t finished yet. But yeah, I’ve been trying to switch to more natural, friendly materials and I think my aesthetic might lean a little more towards nature.
FSB: How has the focus on sustainable design become a central aspect of your brand identity, and how does this influence your creative decisions?
Nowadays it no longer influences designs as there are now many sustainable fabrics to choose from. When I started 6 years ago, the selection was half smaller and much more expensive than it is today. I think it’s much easier to make sustainable decisions these days because I don’t feel like I have to make any creative compromises at all.
FSB: To what extent is the Scandinavian aesthetic reflected in your designs? Can you give us a little Steak Peak regarding the new Fall/Winter 24/25 collection?
Since I’m from Finland, I focus a lot on incorporating my heritage into my designs. In my last collection I drew inspiration from my youth and how I grew up in Finland. In the coming season I will continue to focus on my past in combination with a sporty twist. Another source of inspiration for the new collection is the history of Finnish winter sports.
FSB: As you prepare for Fashion Week, have you worked with other brands or organizations to promote innovative approaches to sustainable fashion?
Last season we worked with the Finnish jewelry label Kalevala because they have this great initiative where they buy back old jewelry from their customers, then re-polish it and then resell it. In my opinion, this is a really interesting approach. It was a really good campaign, so we reused the recycled jewelry and decorated our hoodies with it. I think the idea that you’re wearing something that’s probably 70 years old from a person who may have worn that piece of jewelry in the 60s or 70s is really interesting and it also brings the idea of reusing old pieces full circle . I hope we can do something like this more often in the future.
FSB: Does your label integrate the concept of zero waste design to minimize waste in the production phase? If so, what were the challenges in implementing this?
I think we usually have one or two parts to apply the zero waste factor in practice. It’s a good workout for a designer’s mind because reality has shown that you can do a lot with leftovers. I mean, we’ve been playing around with this idea on all pieces for a few seasons here and there, but we’re not sure if it’s practical to do a whole collection with leftovers. But I mean, there are a lot of people more talented and smarter than me, so maybe they can figure it out.
FSB: If you had a time machine and might bring a sustainable fashion trend into the past or future, what would it be and why?
I really like the idea of recycling. I would like to find a way to reuse clothes in the future. To give the fashion pieces the chance to go through the entire circle of life.
FSB: Finally, what positive impact do you want to have on the fashion industry and the world at large through your sustainable fashion, and how would you like your label to be remembered?
I hope people can see at least some good ideas in my clothes and collections. I can’t believe the things I do are super groundbreaking. Maybe I have a down-to-earth approach to the whole thing. I’m not sure if some of the sustainable ideas might become common practice, but it’s really hard to think regarding these things when you’re in the middle of things, so I’m mostly working on getting everything ready for them now next season. I would also like to thank the Wasted Hour team in Hamburg, who has supported me since day one.
We are really looking forward to the new collection, and if you can’t wait until January, here are some highlights from Rolf Ekroth’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
Author: Gina Kisters – Photo: Rolf Ekroth
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