Hard seltzers made pschitt in France

2023-08-14 04:15:20

The expected tidal wave turned into a ripple. It is indeed difficult to find a hard seltzer this summer on the shelves of supermarkets or on the terrace of a bar. This alcoholic and flavored carbonated water, popular for a time in the United States, had nevertheless launched an attack on French consumers more than three years ago. The acid-coloured cans wanted to seduce young city dwellers, with a well-rehearsed marketing argument. These fermented drinks claimed to be natural, to have a low caloric value and displayed an alcohol content of 4.5 or 5 degrees, comparable to that of beer.

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One of the pioneers in France was the American brand Snowmelt, which landed in July 2020. Marketed by the company Colorado Craft Beverage (Cobex), it boasted pure water from the Rockies, entering into its composition and its development in a brewery located in top of the mountains. Very quickly, the suitors jostled at the gate. French entrepreneurs wishing to exploit the vein have created their start-up and their brand. Natz, Fefe, Obe or Opéan have burst onto the market.

This effervescence of hard seltzers had not escaped the large groups of drinks. Eager not to let the troublemakers shake up their positions, the brewers and manufacturers of spirits and sodas reacted. Thus, in the spring of 2021, Pernod Ricard unveiled its response: cans under the Bewiz stamp. The world number two in spirits then found itself in competition with the American soda giant Coca-Cola, which drew the Topo Chico brand and entered the alcoholic beverages market for the occasion. As for Bacardi-Martini, it was in the running under the Plume & Petal label.

Large companies versus start-ups

This counter-offensive by large companies immediately limited the scope of action of start-ups. “The French market is very difficult. Access to store shelves is complicated. We found ourselves in a delicate situation, especially since the tax framework did not favor us. Hard seltzers have been reclassified as spirits and not as fermented products, with a higher excise duty”explains Thomas Fridman, co-founder of Obe.

The promoters of this fermented seltzer water also clashed with the Association Addictions France. Wishing to warn once morest marketing strategies which, according to her, water down or even conceal the alcohol contained in these drinks, she attacked Fefe and Opéan for non-compliance with the Evin law. Then, in association with UFC-Que Choisir, she targeted Snowmelt in the summer of 2022.

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