The Blues tells of the hard life in the Mississippi Delta. In this vast plain, where black Americans worked as former enslaved cotton pickers and farmers, the genre of blues music emerged.
The melodies and emotional lyrics developed from the gospel – the “spirituals” – which told the story of the black resistance, from work songs and melodies in the dance halls where the workers frequented.
From the churches, fields, bars, and dance halls where the black community lived, the blues spread to street corners, drinking halls, and what were known as “tent tours.” He later conquered the United States through the great migrations of African Americans from the rural South to the industrialized North and West – spawning genres such as jazz and rhythm and blues in the process.
A direct line can be drawn from blues artists like Ma Rainey to the legendary BB King to today’s R&B stars.
The origins of the blues can be traced on the Mississippi Blues Trail.
Here you can see where the blues got their start, from its humble beginnings on the cotton plantations to the glittering hotels and music halls.
Accompany us on a journey to the most important stations of the trail.
Der Highway 61
Stretching from New Orleans to Minnesota, Highway 61 traverses the Mississippi Delta – and is a treasure trove of blues history.
The harsh life in this flooded area has spawned a genre of music that tells a story of creativity born out of the struggle to survive. Artists like Bob Dylan refer directly to Highway 61 in their music, but the route is widely known for the blues musicians it produced.
Artie “Blues Boy” White, Little Joe Blue, Milt Hinton, Papa Lightfoot, and Scott Dunbar all grew up along and near Highway 61.
While soaking up this important place in music history, you can also visit other sites along the Blues Trail, such as the former Rhythm Night Club and Charley Patton’s grave. A popular spot along Highway 61 is the Devil’s Crossroads, made famous by the Robert Johnson song “Cross Road Blues.”
According to blues folklore, Johnson is said to have made a Faustian pact here, trading his soul with the devil for fame and fortune. A deal made all the more believable by the haunted setting in which it came regarding and the mystery surrounding Johnson’s life. The musician did not have a birth certificate and there are only three surviving photos of him – ironic given that the Devil’s Crossroads is now a popular selfie spot for tourists.
The Blue Front Cafe, Bentonia
The oldest open music bar in the state of Mississippi is housed in a nondescript, windowless brick building.
The Blue Front Cafe opened in 1948; there, contraband corn whiskey was served to the peasants who worked the cotton fields of Bentonia.
It is currently managed by Jimmy “Duck” Holmes, the son of the first owners. Holmes, who received a GRAMMY nomination for his 2019 album Cypress Grove, still occasionally joins other artists in impromptu performances in front of walls covered with fading images of blues legends.
Dockery Farms, Cleveland
It’s hard to say where the blues originally originated, but some say its birthplace was Dockery Farms.
This farm, which was once home to 400 families, was the home of Charley Patton, who went on to become one of the world’s most popular blues musicians. It was here that Patton learned the love and skill of what his music would become from his neighbor Henry Sloan. Music, he recorded “Down the Dirt Road Blues” and “Shake It and Break It” and collected many of the anecdotes told in his songs.
The swampy woods turning into cotton fields are believed to have formed the basis of the blues, as Patton later rose to fame and influenced other musicians including Howlin’ Wolf and Roebuck “Pop” Staples, who later appeared in the Staples Singers .
Elvis Presleys Geburtshaus, Tupelo
Elvis may be known as the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll, but the house he grew up in is a monument on the Blues Trail.
Before moving to Memphis, where the “Hound Dog” singer made his name, Elvis’ family lived in Tupelo, Mississippi. The family history is emblematic of the Great Depression. After borrowing $180 to build a two-bedroom frame home, they ended up being foreclosed on by their lenders.
Now you can visit the place where it all began, restored and in its former state.
In Elvis’ birthplace you can immerse yourself in the atmosphere in which the King first heard blues music. The Assembly of God Church, where Elvis first heard gospel, was moved here to complete the musical origin story of the famous talent.
Das Alamo-Theater, Jackson
Located in the heart of Jackson’s Farish Street Historic District, the Alamo Theater was once an integral part of black culture in Mississippi.
The Alamo was primarily a movie theater, but it was also famous for nurturing local talent and providing them with a springboard to record deals through music competitions. It was here that pianist Otis Spann began his career, as did singer Dorothy Moore, who later released “Misty Blue” and “I Believe You”.
Nearby you can also see the plaques at the King Edward Hotel, which was once home to the famous studio and record label Trumpet Records. Bo Carter also recorded here.
Queen City Hotel, Columbus
A former cornerstone of the thriving African American business district on 7th Avenue North, the Queen City Hotel has hosted many of the music greats we know today.
Founded by a former black slave named Robert Walker, the Queen City Hotel has hosted performances by Duke Ellington; its ballroom was also the surrogate home of the famous band The Rhythm Kings.
Although the building was demolished and the area fell into disrepair following desegregation, the site now attracts thousands of visitors each year for the 7th Avenue Heritage Festival.
