Our selection of wines for the start of the school year
Geneva, Swiss, Italian and French wines that can be bought in Geneva. To be enjoyed in moderation
Posted today at 4:47 p.m.
Red, white, rosé, all the colors of wine in our summer selection.
Pierre Albouy
In Lully, the revenge of the Mondeuse
This is a demanding wine. An austere, tense wine. A wine “for insiders”, according to its producer, Damien Mermoud. On the hillside of Lully, his family was the first to reintroduce Mondeuse at the turn of the 2000s. Dragging its reputation as a piquette, unloved for excessive acidity and exaggerated productivity, the Savoyard grape variety had completely disappeared from the canton. Here it is now cleared of preconceptions and benefiting from the know-how of a new generation of winegrowers who venerate it. Pampered with biodynamics, light (only 12.5 degrees of alcohol) and easy to digest, Mondeuse from Damien Mermoud displays a deep purplish color. A taste of prunes and spices. And temperament, a lot of temperament.
Mondeuse, 2020. Damien Mermoud, 12.5% vol. Picked up from the producer, route de Soral 102 (by appointment), Bernex. www.mermoud-vignerons.ch18 fr.
Ideal companion for seafood
Putting “France back in the bottle”, such is the ambition of Christophe Bosque, at the head of the Wine House in Loire-Atlantique. Eager to produce his own cuvées, this former wine merchant and winegrowers’ agent moved to the other side of the vine stock in 2017, buying just under two hectares in the Muscadet appellation. There, he vinifies juices that are vibrant with energy, made from melon de Bourgogne, a white grape variety emblematic of the Nantes region – Christophe Bosque also concocts exquisite reds with trade grapes. His work in the vineyard is impeccably organic, his philosophy in the winery resolutely natural and without inputs.
One hundred percent melon de Bourgogne, therefore, for Ce Qi lien nous 2020, endowed with a pale and cloudy gold color that announces its living charms without filter.
It lands on the nose with discreet scents of green apple and a scent of iodine that makes you want to suck on pebbles on the beach. Then he slips on the
taste an idea of a slightly green almond adorned with a veil of honey; its slight astringency imperiously invites the next sip and its salivating freshness makes this nectar the ideal companion for seafood or an aperitif. Attention, high evaporation potential…
Lady Gloo
This Qi binds us 2020, De Vini, 11°, without added sulphur. To order at Friends of the Castle for 16 fr. 50.
A titled white sommelier nectar
Let’s taste today one of the four wines produced by Paolo Basso, our European champion (2010) and world champion (2013) in sommellerie. Born in Lombardy, but binational, he has always lived in Ticino, where he decided to embark on the development of fine wines. Chiara’s White 2020 is a Merlot vinified in white, which offers, under a pale gold color, an expressive nose with floral notes, acacias, honeysuckle, and aromas of white peach and mirabelle plum. On the palate, its elegant vinosity and suppleness lead to an impressive persistence and a pleasant freshness on the finish. Meal wine to accompany sole meunière or poultry from Nant d’Avril with cream.
AGI
Il Bianco di Chiara 2020, 31 fr. 50 Paolo Basso Wine Sagl, via L. Ruvioli 8a, CH-6853 Ligornetto. Tél. +41 91 922 08 10.https://paolobasso.store
An airy orange jaja
Myosotis is a cuvée as charming as the flower whose name it bears. It enchants the nostril with vegetal exhalations of eucalyptus where a delicate spirit of melon rose hovers. Then, very pretty bitters pick up the tongue at the first sip, like mandarin skin and candied ginger flowing down the throat with the freshness of a river. River, precisely, it is question in the approach of the Angevine Pauline Lair, whose wines celebrate the different wine regions of the Loire Valley.
Having no vines, the young winemaker works in the most natural way possible with grapes from various Loire domains in her urban cellar in the suburbs of Angers. She baptized her adventure 1006, like the 1006 kilometers that the Loire travels from its source to the ocean. Myosotis 2021 is the result of a collaboration with winemaker Emmanuel Merceron. The latter provided Pauline Lair with the Pinot Gris from which this elegant maceration wine is made. An airy and digestible jaja orange, which might almost be drunk at tea time.
Lady Gloo
Myosotis 2021, 1006, Pauline Lair, 10.5°. Picked up for 21 fr. at the Wine Passman.
St. Gallen quince
There is a highly commendable winemaker in St. Gallen who weaves exquisite natural wines. Endowed with an infectious smile, Philipp Grob cultivates biodynamically and by hand two hectares of pinot noir, müller thurgau and sauvignon blanc, whose plots sprinkle the dizzying escarpments of the Rhine valley like confetti. Follower of a low-intervention vinification, Philipp Grob lets his juices ferment spontaneously and does not filter them; he also refuses to add any input whatsoever, not even an ounce of sulphur.
Thanks to his wise precepts, the wines come out of the barrel full of life and dance in the throat with tapered grace. Take for example this maceration of müller thurgau, which fills the glasses with the color of the rising sun, cloudy like a summer mist: it makes your nose rise to the scent of honey and apricot, before sending you to the bottom of the throat a well-felt punch. Its bitter weft is ultra-precise and its freshness clicks the tongue with the liveliness of a waterfall. A wine as tense as Albator’s thong, a true aperitif corsair.
Lady Gloo
Chlapf 2021, Müller Thurgau, Philipp Grob, 10°, no sulfur added. To be adopted for 32 fr. at Nino.
Saint Joseph in his golden robe
This white Saint-Joseph, produced by Yves Cuilleron in Chavanay in the Loire department, was born on a plot of land in a place called “Digue”. A very steep south-facing hillside in the commune of Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf, to the north of the appellation. A terroir made up of Velay granite and clear migmatic. It is characterized by its composition, as it is a single grape variety, 100% Roussanne. The vines were planted at high intensity from 8,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare. It undergoes minimal treatment, without insecticide, and very little fertilizer, only organic. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged 50% in 30 hectoliter wooden casks and 50% in Burgundy barrels without racking, eight months on the lees. This Saint-Joseph offers a fairly intense golden color. It develops aromas of white flowers, acacias, yellow fruits, apricot, peach, vanilla, honey and aniseed notes. On the palate, its breadth, richness and roundness unfold over an immense length and end in a velvety atmosphere. AGI
Saint-Joseph “Lieu-dit Digue” 2018, Cave Yves Cuilleron, Verlieu, Chavanay, France. Such. +33 474 87 02 37.
The rosy cry of summer
To hear the cry of summer, stick your ear to the neck of a bottle of Frauenpower rosé. It will slip you into the esgourde of secrets all dappled with gooseberry, it will watermelon you with carmine in the hollow of the pavilion.
A 9.5 degree thirst quencher orchestrated by Alanna @vindelagamba through, among other things, dornfelder, siegerrebe and riesling. A creamy, dashing, quivering fruity pet nat that shaves all patriarchy’s beards: “Taste like patriarchy’s demise and I like it,” the label announces.
Lady Gloo
At Passeur de vin, 25 rue Eugène-Marziano in Geneva. 20fr the bottle.
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