Last Friday, the three mountaineers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau reached the summit of Denali via the Slovak Direct (2,500 m, VI 5.9 M6 WI 6+) following only 21h30 of effort.
An impressive record which opens a new page in the history of the summit hasLaskien: That’s a third of the time it took Steve House, Mark Twight, and Scott Backes in 2000. Their record at the time was achieved in a 60-hour single push.
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A history of records
Opened in 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl, the route took 11 days to climb. Along the Cassin spur on the south face of Denali, it rises over 2500 meters across and joins the summit at 6190 m altitude.
Fascinating by its difficulty and its breadth and altitude, the route has never ceased to attract the most eminent roped parties since its first achievement and its first speed records. “At the time, it was the most extreme route,” admitted Mark Twight, holder of the previous record, during our interview for the release of his book Refuge.
Haute altitude, haute performance
“I doubt this record will stand for 20 years. Hopefully others will climb it faster in a few weeks! Everyone’s successes push the boundaries of our sport as we learn from each other. ” Alan Rousseau
Already last year, during their ascents of Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter, Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell were considering the south face of the highest peak in North America. Three times, they will go to the foot of the face covering the 30 kilometer approach; without success. The route will remain inaccessible due to the lack of weather conditions and window. This year, joined by Matt Cornell, they had set themselves the goal of climbing the direct Slovak as quickly as possible.
It’s done ! On the morning of Friday, May 20, 2022, the three climbers reached the roof of Alaska 9:30 p.m. following setting out on the route. After passing the bergschrund at 4:20 a.m. on Thursday morning, they reached the summit the next day around 2 a.m. A record feat that pushes the limits of performance and speed at high altitude.
“We are happy with what we have done and enthusiastic regarding what this effort lets us imagine for the future” declared Alan Rousseau before adding: “I doubt that this record will remain unbeaten for 20 years. others will climb it faster in a few weeks! Everyone’s success pushes the boundaries of our sport as we learn from each other.”
Alaskan Prowess
This is not the first feat of the season for the Cornell-Marvell duo, who opened two new routes on the faces of Pyramid Peak in April. This record at Slovak Direct marks a new career high point for the three climbers and tops their list of many achievements in the region. A regular at the massif, Marvell said the route has remained in his sights since he started climbing in Alaska.
